Mount Bromo: Where Heaven in addition to also Hell Meet
Mount Bromo
Mount Bromo (Gunung Bromo), an active volcano two hours’ drive east of Surabaya, East Java, is actually by far the most accessible volcano inside region. Still active in addition to also occasionally spewing ash in addition to also smoke over the area, This kind of is actually set on an eerie plain known as the Sea of Sand, a caldera on which four volcanic cones have emerged. A protected nature reserve since 1919, This kind of area is actually home to the Hindu Tengger people, who, the story has This kind of, fled into the highlands to escape the encroachment of Islam inside 16th century.
Most visitors approach Bromo via Probolinggo to the east of Bromo, however we take a shorter route via Pasuruan, in part because This kind of is actually closer, however also because This kind of is actually more scenic in addition to also less touristic. The route takes us through highland Tengger villages with outstanding views down on the valleys that will fall below the mountain slopes.
First stop is actually to an elaborate village market at Pasrepan. Here, goods are brought in through the surrounding countryside, everything through vegetables, chickens in addition to also goats, to farm implements, fish in addition to also tobacco.
Few visitors come This kind of way so we attract a not bad deal of attention, however certainly in a friendly way. The produce here is actually about the best there is actually: cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes abound, all grown on the fertile slopes of This kind of volcanic region, in addition to also they look amazingly fresh in addition to also worth buying. Buyers come in through far afield to purchase here, supplying restaurants in addition to also city markets inside area.
The road winds on up at a serious degree of incline, however the asphalt surface is actually not bad in addition to also This kind of is actually only the twists in addition to also turns that will may be hazardous. We stop at points along the way where we can gaze down into beautifully cultivated valleys, where terracing utilizes every possible inch for planting. The angle at which the farmers must work looks excruciating. The Tenggerese live in simple wooden dwellings that will perch themselves on the mountainsides, sitting precariously above the road. These people are short, with ruddy complexions in addition to also sinewy limbs. Sarongs are draped over their shoulders as a kind of shawl against the cold.
Riding the horse
Eventually we reach the entrance to the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park where we transfer to hardtop jeeps (all Toyota Land Cruisers through the 70s) for the drive up to Mount Penanjakan (2,770 m) which provides awesome views down onto the Sea of Sand. Our drivers are hardy folk in addition to also delight in generating on their wits around hairpin bends. This kind of’s all we can do to hold on tight inside back, gripping anything we can find. Mist comes in in addition to also out quickly here, so sometimes This kind of is actually necessary to linger to catch a glimpse of the view. This kind of is actually where, at sunrise, hundreds of serious photographers jostle to catch National Geographic views, however by mid-morning we have This kind of to ourselves. This kind of is actually heaven.
The descent down to the Sea of Sand is actually a hairy drive. Loose gravel means that will traction is actually poor in addition to also sometimes at speed we encounter jeeps coming up in addition to also only through the driver’s skill, avoid collision. The Sea of Sand stretches out before us – a dirty black plain of volcanic rock ground down over millennia. Horsemen, Tenggerese men, eager for our trade, suddenly appear through nowhere determined to reach us first for a booking. Ahead, dozens of horsemen are awaiting the tourists in packs. After a kafuffle we choose our guides in addition to also having mounted we set off on the 30-minute trek to the foot of Mount Bromo (2,329 m). This kind of is actually the hell bit. This kind of is actually an eerie landscape of nothing however sand, mists, whiffs of distant sulphurous fumes, in addition to also a light that will waxes in addition to also wanes between piercingly bright to forebodingly gloomy. We pass by Mount Batok (2,470 m), an almost perfect cone having a cut-off top in addition to also neatly seamed sides down which molten lava carved its path, in addition to also the rather drab Hindu Poten Temple.
Climbing the 250 concrete steps
Our horses reach as far as they can go. Kids sell bouquets of dried Casuarina in addition to also Javanese Edelweiss. Dismounting, we climb the 250 concrete steps leading us up to the edge of the crater. This kind of’s a hard climb inside rarefied air full of sulphurous fumes. On a weekend This kind of can be packed with tourists, domestic in addition to also international, however today we have This kind of to ourselves. At last at the top! We grab handkerchiefs to gag our mouths in addition to also eyes through the fumes which are blowing up through the inner cauldron into our faces. A metre-wide ledge is actually all that will guards us against tumbling down into the cauldron. Peering as best as we can the inner sides of the cone are of ash, however This kind of’s further down that will one can see the reddish embers of fire. A few minutes is actually all we can bear, so we descend as quickly as the steps down will allow. At halfway, the fumes begin to dissipate in addition to also we can breathe in addition to also see again. We take our breath in addition to also check to see that will everyone in our party is actually with us. Being stuck at the top would certainly mean quick asphyxiation in addition to also medical services are a world away.
Back on solid ground we mount our horses back to the main gathering point. Vendors offer welcome cups of tea in addition to also coffee, in addition to also steaming bowls of instant noodles. After a break we take the jeeps out of the area to the entrance point where our driver is actually waiting for us. The consensus among us is actually that will Mount Bromo is actually definitely one of the planet’s most awesome views, in addition to also weirdest of places, however highly recommended.
Province: East Java
Elevation: 2,770 m
How to get there: Drive through Surabaya to Pasuruan. Turn off on the road to Puspo in addition to also drive to Tosari. Take jeeps through there to the two views at Mount Penanjakan in addition to also then down to the Sea of Sand in addition to also to the foot of Mount Bromo. Garuda, Air Asia in addition to also Silk Air all fly into Surabaya.
Where to stay: Java Banana, Raya Bromo, Wonotoro, Probolinggo. Tel: (0335) 541 193 www.java-banana.com; Lava View Lodge, Cemorolawang, Probolinggo. Tel (0335) 541 009.
What to bring: Hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, jacket, scarf, gloves, face mask.
Costs: Park entry: Rp.300,000 per person, Jeep (up to four people): Rp.500,000
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Mount Bromo: Where Heaven in addition to also Hell Meet
Mount Bromo: Where Heaven in addition to also Hell Meet