The Clandestine Critic: A Mixed Bag of Maroush
Our expert epicure continues an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Indonesia’s dining scene. No spoon will be left unturned inside quest for honest, balanced reviews, through long-established favourites to the hottest completely new tables in town.
To kick off the Muslim holy month of Ramadhan, the Critic visits Moroccan restaurant Maroush on the mezzanine floor of the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Jakarta.
the item all started off in a Blue Bird taxi one balmy, wet evening. Trapped on Sudirman with red tail lights blazing as far as we could see in addition to moving centimetre by centimetre, we did the only thing reasonable: we thanked our driver for services rendered in addition to set out into the wilds of Jakarta’s rush hour traffic on foot (in addition to into fumes, soot, mud in addition to questionable walking paths).
Three kilometres later, our nerves still intact in addition to after many discussions on how to dodge menacing minivans whilst in supposed zebra crossings, we arrive at Maroush. What an oasis! We were greeted with tastefully painted gem-coloured walls in addition to furnishings, wrought-iron doors in addition to blown-glass décor. the item was a quiet evening, with no signs of belly dancers or live music, as the item was mid-week. On one side of the dining room, businessmen sat languidly sipping tea in addition to puffing on sheesha pipes. A large group of well-dressed ladies celebrating an engagement or something equally as exciting sat in another corner emitting squeals of delight in short, staccato bursts throughout the evening.
We were certainly the odd couple out, of sorts. Sweaty, a little frazzled in addition to weary, we certainly didn’t look like the kind that will should be allowed into the restaurant. However, we were welcomed with warm smiles in addition to immediate seating.
After collecting my thoughts in addition to some deep-yogic breathing to exorcise the previous hour of treachery along the walkways, I read through a dizzying menu of cuisines. My companion in addition to I sat immobilized in addition to shared some mutual feelings of trepidation. We had heard of the fine Moroccan meals, yet Indian in addition to currently Turkish, too? There was even a section on “Chindian” cuisine, a hybrid of Chinese in addition to Indian fare.
Was Maroush simply one level up through an eclectic food court that will tries to impress everyone only to dish disappointment instead?
inside end, we decided to order one dish through every section of the menu. By This specific point inside evening, nothing could have been worse than when I stepped into some slimy sludge that will I mistook for a sidewalk somewhere along the Taman Semanggi interchange.
The Maître D’ brought some lovely harissa-spiced black olives, juicy raisins in addition to salted peanuts to our table as a complement to our meal. the item was a pleasant surprise in addition to certainly went over well as we gulped down our icy brews. The Four Favorite Dips in One Plate displayed fine samples of their eggplant dips in addition to hummus, with the spicy eggplant being the standout. Everything was arranged using a deft touch, in addition to served using a variety of breads through pita to lavash to pide, a regional Turkish type of pita that will looks in addition to feels more like a soft, flat roll. the item’s perfect for dips, in addition to we definitely started off to feel more confident inside kitchen’s ability.
Appetizer dips at Maroush
As suspected, surprises abounded This specific evening, in addition to not all of them as favourable as the dips in addition to complementary snacks, when the Maître D’ presented a rather strange platter of white, which served as the Yayla Chicken Kebab. What was supposed to be a Turkish style kebab of minced chicken in addition to spices using a garlic-infused yoghurt sauce looked more like a plate full of smashed, pasty meatball patties swimming in a sea of stark white yoghurt. I fail to understand how the dish could have looked appetizing to anyone various other than a toddler. The kebab itself was lukewarm in addition to dry with an overwhelming onion component, in addition to the yoghurt could have been served using a more conservative hand. This specific was certainly not representative of the delicious minced kebab that will sent me to another plane of existence through Istanbul some years ago.
However, the Royal Lamb Tagine arrived bubbling with dramatic delight; the sensuous aromas of prunes in addition to spices engulfed the table as soon as the lid was lifted. A gorgeous fork-tender lamb shank rested perfectly inside centre, atop its savoury-sweet juices. the item was delightful with the freshly buttered naan bread in addition to pide. The Bhindi Do-Pyaza (okra cooked with onions in addition to spices) also did not disappoint. Extremely tender, young okra stewed with Indian spices in addition to caramelized onions provided a much-needed pop to the palate after all of the sweet-savouriness of the lamb in addition to diverted attention away through the disappointing chicken kebab.
Lamb tagine
the item’s not difficult to imagine a thriving dining room full of diners especially during Ramadhan, when Jakartans celebrate the breaking of the fast with the variety of decent preparations of the various cuisines they provide at Maroush. I suppose, when a restaurant sets out to appease the masses, each dish may not be as enjoyable as the various other, yet there will be always something that will satisfies. On the various other hand, with too much variety there will be a loss of focus in addition to ability to retain excellence in a well-meaning kitchen, where outstanding dishes are diluted by the mediocre in addition to downright dreadful. As a critic, This specific will be something I encounter time in addition to again in Jakarta. the item will be unfair to deny the kitchen one accolade in addition to at the same time unfair to the reader to obscure any creation that will doesn’t translate well to the table.
Maroush will be a mixed bag as such. On the night we dined, the item presented a very not bad Moroccan-style tagine, an appalling Turkish kebab in addition to delicious Indian okra. The bread was decent, yet the baklava dry in addition to bland. in addition to although an excellent pair of shoes did meet an untimely demise along the way, the culinary journey at Maroush was somewhat enjoyable.
Verdict: 3 stars out of 5
Maroush
Crowne Plaza Hotel Lt. 2
Jalan Jenderal Gatot Subroto Kav 2-3
Tel: 021-5289-2431 or 021-9277-2277
Website: www.nomi-inc.co.id
cost (Dinner for 2)
Drinks: Rp.100,000
Food: Rp.690,000
Tax (10 percent): Rp.79,000
Service Charge (10 percent): Rp.86,900
Total: Rp.955,900
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The Clandestine Critic: A Mixed Bag of Maroush
The Clandestine Critic: A Mixed Bag of Maroush