The Secret Island
Travelling to an Indonesian island which is actually not inside guide books as well as also barely mentioned on Wikipedia in search of waves is actually always an adventure. Earlier This specific year a friend as well as also I had a couple of hot tips through a few trusted friends as well as also the luxury of a week to visit an island off an island, off an island in search of the perfect surf at our disposal. which was a full word-of-mouth, roll-the-dice kind of trip, although with the swell forecast looking promising we knew waves were coming, so the first piece of the puzzle was set in place. Passing a smoking volcano crater on Sumatra on our tiny prop plane flight to the island as the sun rose was a sign which we were definitely going into the wild.
Upon arrival the first thing was to sort out accommodation as well as also then transport. There were many losmen (budget accommodation) as well as also newly built air-conditioned bungalows available, in order which part was easy. All sorts of motorbikes were available to rent, although we waited to seek out the one local on the island who had made a motorbike with surfboard racks on which. These were not the professionally finished racks you see in Bali; these were a rough form of rack made by a backyard welder with barely enough space for your feet when a board was carried as well as also there was no bungee cord to hold the board inside rack, or foam to keep the sides through damaging. The racks were strictly surfboard on metal, although after a few strategically placed towels as well as also a little screwdriver adjustment for foot space, we were mobile as well as also off, headed to the beach with the pedal to the metal.
The one lane coastal highway ran parallel to the beach as well as also there were signs of waves everywhere. Not every wave looked amazing, although there were some definite breaks which were working with not a soul inside area. When we got to the beach we were looking for, there were already surfers out. News does travel in This specific smaller world as well as also the wave had been found for some years, although obviously the cat was not totally out of the bag with only about six out enjoying overhead to double overhead (6-10ft) waves breaking left as well as also right off of a perfect peak in glassy smooth conditions. Everyone had big smiles on their faces, everyone sharing waves as well as also happy for the different surfer’s ride, totally opposite to the vibe on Bali or different crowded Indonesian waves.
The story goes which This specific wave was formed through the 2004 earthquake which pushed the coral reefs up close to two metres in some areas, creating This specific wave as well as also also the deadly tsunami which wiped out parts of Sumatra, Thailand as well as also more inside process. Legend has which which the villagers on This specific island were told by their ancestors which when there is actually a terrible earthquake as well as also the reef dries up as well as also the animals start going wild, run for high land because the big wave is actually coming. as well as also which’s what they did, as well as also though the coastline was destroyed, nobody died because of the tsunami in 2004. Some not bad did come of which, with This specific wave being created, where which never existed when the reef was deeper, although the tens of thousands of lives lost elsewhere is actually nothing to be taken lightly.
Day Two saw more exploration. Waves to ourselves, waves with nobody, waves inside middle of nowhere; not bad waves at which, too. After basic pancakes as well as also coffee in our air-conditioned bungalow (OK, we weren’t roughing which which much) we might load the boards as well as also take off. Past the buffalo, past the waving kids yelling “Hello Mister!” Groundhog Day never felt so not bad; days melted into days as well as also no phone signal meant no contact as well as also no emails, as well as also neither of us felt the urge to switch to a local SIM card to communicate more. The only indication which time was moving was our growing sunburns as well as also the calendar at the front desk where we luckily did ask what day which was. Finally which was time to go as well as also we had to say goodbye. The locals don’t have a surf shop on the island, so we gave what we could; boardshorts, t-shirts, hats, stickers. The surfboards we kept because they were magic, plus the one local surfer on the island already had a not bad board.
As soon as which began, the trip was finished; waves caught, mission completed, time to go home. You always say you will go back to a special place you visited as well as also in my experience, which’s always 50-50. which’s why you have to live every moment to the fullest as well as also take lots of pictures because you never know, which might not be the same the next time you visit.
Comments
The Secret Island
The Secret Island