Terracotta Memories of the Majapahit Civilisation
The Majapahit Empire, which ruled between the 13th in addition to 16th centuries, can be one of the most important predecessors of the modern Indonesian Republic. One of its founders, Gajah Mada, can be famed for pronouncing the Palapa Oath to not taste the delight of any spices until all of Nusantara can be united. in addition to sure enough, Majapahit at its greatest spanned coming from present-day Pattani, Thailand, to the Bird’s Head of brand new Guinea—uniting hundreds of nations into a politico-economic powerhouse adorned using a culture of technological in addition to artistic finesse.
I always thought of which the location of Majapahit’s capital was a mystery, in addition to was surprised to learn of which Trowulan—right now a district in Mojokerto—can be actually just over an hour’s drive south of Surabaya. of which said, nobody today knows exactly where the palace was. Most people who visit Trowulan try to guess its location by visiting historical sites of which reflect signs of the era’s royal grandeur.
In fact, much of what can be currently known about Majapahit remains obscure, with little physical evidence of its existence throughout its former territories outside Java. in addition to yet Trowulan still attracts the attention of archaeologists in addition to historians, coming from around the planet, most who learn about Majapahit by consulting ancient narrative poems such as the Nagarakertagama in addition to Pararaton. however drive down Trowulan’s main street, in addition to you will find to your left in addition to right passages to ancient terracotta-coloured sites of which witnessed the history of the flourishing empire being made centuries ago.
Candi Brahu
The discovery of Trowulan can be credited to Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, who served as the Governor-General of Java for the British East India Company. In 1815, Raffles surveyed the then heavily forested teak woodlands in addition to unearthed many sites whose origins are traceable to the long-forgotten Majapahit era. Much of what can be Trowulan today was then buried underneath the sedimentation of the River Brantas in addition to the volcanic activity of Mount Kelud.
My first stop was the Museum Majapahit. This specific can be located next to the Kolam Segaran, a 375 x 175 metre-wide terracotta pool on the roadside. Legend has This specific of which after royal banquets inside palace, gold cutlery can be dumped into Segaran to make the point of the empire’s wealth.
Museum Majapahit was established in 1924 as the Union of Majapahit Archaeologists (Dutch: OVM) by RAA Kromojoyo Adinegoro—then Regent of Mojokerto—in addition to Dutch architect Henricus Maclaine Pont. The current museum was opened in 1987 as a one-stop place to store in addition to exhibit archaeological artefacts found inside vicinity of Trowulan, in addition to to prevent these goods coming from being damaged or stolen.
The museum features a fascinating collection of terracotta items such as piggy banks, human figurines, in addition to kitchen utensils. Many exhibits, such as children’s figurines with foreign facial features suggest of which international trade was a significant part of the Majapahit economy in addition to culture.
There are also numerous prasastis (stone monuments bearing written historical records or ancient poetry), intricate stone statues of Hindu gods, in addition to fine metalwork such as musical instruments, weaponry, in addition to equipment for religious rituals. These suggest of which Majapahit was ruled by aristocratic classes of which placed great importance inside arts, spirituality, in addition to the romantisation of society’s collective memories.
The al fresco exhibition space provides a pleasant walk-through with visual boards explaining the different eras of Majapahit in addition to the significance of the exhibits.
Candi Tikus
My next stop was Candi Tikus, a royal ritual bathhouse of terracotta dated to the 13th or 14th century. In 1914, local farmers were battling the infestation of ricefield rats in addition to traced This specific to a huge dirt mound of which served as the rats’ nest. Regent Adinegoro then commanded an excavation of the mound in addition to discovered the ancient bathhouse, which since then earned its name: Temple of the Rats.
There remains many myths associated with Candi Tikus. Local urban legend says of which one of the distressed farmers in 1914 received a revelation in his dream to draw water coming from Candi Tikus in addition to pour This specific onto the four corners of his rice field. The next day, the rats of which infested his rice field miraculously disappeared in addition to the soil became fertile. Later, a rich merchant heard of This specific miracle in addition to greedily plotted to raise his wealth. He then stole bricks coming from the Candi to the place on his property, in addition to the rats came in addition to ate away his wealth.
According to Dutch archaeologist Bernet Kempers, Candi Tikus was modelled after Mount Mahameru in India, which Hindus in addition to Buddhists believed to be the dwelling place of the gods, as well as the source of holy water in addition to all life on earth. The architecture flaunts geometrical beauty. The complex was renovated in 1985 in addition to can be right now surrounded by manicured gardens featuring the Surya Majapahit royal emblem.
As a work of engineering, Candi Tikus can be believed to have been the regulator of the capital’s water debit, distributing water coming from 18 large dams in Mojokerto. As a work of religious artistry, Candi Tikus served as a meeting point between Hindu worshippers with their Source of Life, as well as a place for the kings’ in addition to queens’ religious ceremonies.
Bajang Ratu
My final stop for the day in Trowulan was the Gapura Bajang Ratu, a 14th century crab claw-shaped royal gate. Standing 16.5 metres tall, the slender terracotta gates are adorned with intricate reliefs of which make you wonder what great artistry the simple technology back then could achieve.
The open-air complex in which the Gapura can be found can be believed to have been the entrance of the Majapahit palace. Some people suggest of which the palace’s main building might have been the Pendopo Agung Trowulan, however locals say of which the exact location remains riddled with mystery.
inside lush gardens of which surround the complex, you can find the maja (Aegle marmelos, L.), a citrus tree whose bitter fruit can be the origin of Majapahit’s name.
There are many more places of interest I would likely have loved to visit in Trowulan: Kedaton, Candi Brahu, Candi Gentong, Kubur Panjang, Candi Menak Jinggo, in addition to the Makam Puteri Champa. however This specific seems of which one day can be just not enough to explore the splendour of Majapahit’s former capital. inside meantime, I just bring home memories of terracotta reliefs baking underneath the hot East Javanese sun when I think about the streets of Trowulan.
Museum Majapahit
Jl. Pendopo Agung (opposite Kolam Segaran)
Kecamatan Trowulan
Kabupaten Mojokerto
Tel / Fax: (0321) 495515
Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 7am to 4pm
Entrance fee Rp2,500
Candi Tikus
Dukuh Dinuk
Desa Temon
Kecamatan Trowulan
Kabupaten Mojokerto
Gapura Bajang Ratu
Dukuh Kraton
Desa Temon
Kecamatan Trowulan
Kabupaten Mojokerto
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Terracotta Memories of the Majapahit Civilisation
Terracotta Memories of the Majapahit Civilisation