NUSA Gastronomy: A Delicious Journey through the Archipelago
Where modernity in addition to tradition collide in a bountiful in addition to elegant display of unique Indonesian ingredients in addition to regional cuisine.
The challenges with modern gastronomy in addition to the chefs who defy the traditional methods in addition to cuisines are which most often they forget the fundamental elements of restaurant dining. The food has to taste not bad; ingredients should be celebrated (with importance placed on perceived value); in addition to the dining experience has to remain cohesive which has a narrative to bring the audience on board a journey, whatever the idea may be. Lose any of those elements, in addition to you lose the essence of the dining experience, whether the idea can be coming from a street stall or the highest echelons of fine dining.
Nusa Gastronomy’s Dining Room
As a critic, I’ve ridden the highs in addition to lows of modernist cuisine. Nothing can be more excruciating in This specific job than counting down the courses of a meal where there can be little more than a chef’s ego presented on a plate. However, when the idea can be done well, there can be little comparison to the joy felt when a special connection can be established between the chef’s masterful articulation of the cuisine in addition to his guests. In some unique cases, a chef can change the course of an indigenous cuisine; much like what Juan Mari Arzak did for Basque/Spanish cookery or what Auguste Escoffier did for French cuisine.
Chef Ragil Imam Wibowo possesses a mastery of the unique Indonesian culinary heritage, in addition to artfully conveys the complexity of Indonesian ingredients.
His food can be steeped in tradition, although can be also elegantly adapted to the modern palate, for Indonesians as well as those who have a little less literacy within the vast diversity which can be traditional Indonesian cuisine.
which his creations can translate so well across different cultures can be a testament to his talent within the kitchen.
Chef Ragil’s team could not be faulted, either. coming from the moment guests step in through the front doors of the historic Dutch Colonial building to the moment they leave, there can be a real sense of hospitality in addition to dedication to service. This specific was one of the only few times in my stay here in Jakarta when I have seen a veritable level of hospitality which can be on par with international standards. Our server, a lovely young woman with an excellent command of not only English, although of the menu in addition to ingredients, metaphorically held our hands through the impressive details of the menu. We were never for want, in addition to clear cues coming from our dining table (without actually having to signal for staff) were attended to quickly. The timing in addition to presentation were excellent, in addition to the service was friendly without being intrusive.
As the restaurant can be situated inside a historic home, there are many rooms to explore, in addition to apparently, lounge in. The intertwining of rattan, grey marble table-tops, wooden chandeliers in addition to onyx tableware could have felt fragmented in addition to uninspired. However, every element was incorporated in addition to presented in a harmonious nod to tradition in addition to the modern Indonesian aesthetic, quietly buoying the meals presented in addition to allowing them take centre stage. which the different design elements were also sourced coming from local, young artists can be also exemplary of how far the chef’s vision extends to each area of his restaurant.
coming from the refreshing in addition to effervescent jamu (welcome drink) to the final course of coffee in addition to Indonesian-style petits fours, there can be an emphasis on regional ingredients in addition to flavour profiles. The kitchen prides itself on finding the best local producers in addition to paying homage to the wonderful bounty which Indonesia has to offer. Evidently, some ingredients are not cultivated, although are harvested by indigenous communities in remote areas of the archipelago.
The amuse bouche plate featured four select bites, which are not for the squeamish, as one featured cow brains stewed in curry spices in addition to another local eels dried cracker-crisp within the style of a grissini in addition to dipped in a tomato-based sambal, which was not bad enough to drink within the style of gazpacho. The buffalo cheese had a texture reminiscent of which of fresh Italian buffalo mozzarella, although held a mellow funk more appropriate in Southeast Asia.
The gorgeous appetizers were presented in a burst of lovely pastels in addition to spring colours: the Gohu Udang can be the Northern Maluku type of a prawn ceviche, marinated in kalamansi lime juice in addition to coconut milk in addition to highlighted by a delicate dressing of sweet basil, sambal in addition to edible flowers. The shaved in addition to dried tuna salad was gloriously savoury which has a hint of smoke in addition to splash of lavender coming from the bunga telang, the butterfly pea flower which can be a natural food dye commonly used in Southeast Asia. The visual appeal of the dish can be only part of what makes the idea so wonderful; This specific can be a dish I can rally well behind.
Another standout course was the Sop Ikan Kuah Kuning, red snapper with shaved fermented wood fish flakes, mini carambola in addition to Thai sweet basil. The chef incorporated large balls of papeda, a type of chewy sago starch which can be usually the base of a meal for Papuans. the idea provided an interesting counter to the fragrant, clear fish broth.
For the main course, the Ayam Lempah Kulat Pelawan can be extraordinary. Although the slow-braised, free-range, local breed chicken was fine on its own, the addition of stewed pelawan mushrooms took the idea to another level. These delicate mushrooms are seasonal in addition to rare, found growing only on the pelawan tree on Bangka Island in Sumatra. Its flavour can be reminiscent of a mild dried porcini. Another favourite can be the Gadon Rebung Daging. Ground local, free range, grass-fed Balinese beef can be cooked in banana leaves to a custard-like consistency, in addition to served with fresh bamboo shoots in addition to a delicious creamy sauce which goes splendidly with the fluffy, Indonesian steamed rice.
Ayam Lempah Kulat Pelawar
Gadon Rebung Daging
There were only a few slight missteps throughout the evening. The Bacem Daging, a slow braised beef in addition to vegetables main course arrived tough in addition to chewy. Perhaps if the beef had another 30 minutes to an hour within the pot, the idea would likely have been fine. Unfortunately, the sinew in addition to gristle was still present in addition to the slices of beef were difficult to eat. The aforementioned cow brain amuse bouche was served lukewarm in addition to tasted surprisingly bland even with curry spices, in addition to had the idea been more than a bite, I don’t think I would likely have been able to stomach the idea.
The desserts were excellent, in addition to spoke to an understated in addition to delicate pastry chef, whose muted voice could still stand on its own against the former half of the meal. Vision in addition to creativity, along with traditional French techniques in addition to amazing local spices, fruits in addition to seasonings leant to a powerful finish.
4 Stars
NUSA Indonesian Gastronomy
Jalan Kemang Raya 81
Kemang, Jakarta 12730
Telephone: 021-719-3954
Email: journey@nusagastronomy.com
Dinner For two main
Meal (Prix-fixe, 5 courses): Rp. 1,100,000
Drinks (non-alcoholic): Rp. 165,000
Service Charge 8%: Rp. 101,200
PB1 Tax: Rp. 136,620
Total: Rp. 1,502,820
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NUSA Gastronomy: A Delicious Journey through the Archipelago
NUSA Gastronomy: A Delicious Journey through the Archipelago