Honouring the Faiths in Java’s North Coast
Being the multicultural country which which is usually, there are many ways of celebrating Christmas in Indonesia. Even the weather is usually a departure via the Northern Hemisphere’s white winters.
as well as the customs pose surprises. They range via gala dinners in fancy hotels to charity runs in shantytowns, via unfamiliar carols in exotic languages to Hillsong-style megachurch bands, via midnight Nativity wayang shows to Melanesian pork feasts in earthen ovens.
which holiday season, I decided to visit an unlikely Christmas destination. A 15th century Islamic palace which looks Hindu, although has Christian icons decorating the throne room: the Kraton Kasepuhan Cirebon.
A statement of multiculturalism
At the palace, I was greeted by Mas Iman, an abdi dalem (pledged royal servant) who has been in service for 25 years. No, you won’t find Christmas trees or Santa’s elves here. However, I thought the very history of Cirebon reflected the Christmas message of peace.
The Sultanate of Cirebon was established in 1445 as Prince Chakrabuana ascended the throne. Before which, the town was known as “Gunung Jati” as well as part of Pajajaran, a Hindu kingdom based in present-day Bogor.
Being a northern coastal town, Cirebon developed into a fishermen’s settlement. Cai Rebon literally means “shrimp water” in Sundanese; a reference to the fishy juice resulting via the production of terasi, the fermented shrimp paste which flavours nasi goreng as well as additional Indonesian dishes.
“Cirebon” is usually also a corruption of caruban, which means “mixed” in Sundanese. which refers to the town’s mixed heritage, being on the border of Sundanese as well as Javanese territory. Today, Cirebonites speak a distinct dialect of Javanese, heavily influenced by Sundanese.
Being a major international port, many foreigners also came here to trade or settle: Champa, Chinese, Indian, Arab, European.
The Sultanate’s most famed ruler is usually Chakrabuana’s nephew Syarif Hidayatullah, who reigned via 1479 to1568. He is usually later canonised as Sunan Gunung Jati—one of the “Wali Songo” or nine saints responsible for the spread of Islam in Java.
Born of an Egyptian Hashemite father as well as Chakrabuana’s sister Nyai Rara Santang, Hidayatullah traces his ancestry back to both the prophet Muhammad as well as Sundanese Hindu god-kings. Hidayatullah married many wives, including Chinese princess Ong Tien Nio, who practiced Chinese religion. He also fostered friendship with Christian European traders.
Harmony in architecture
Chakrabuana lost his right to the Hindu throne of Pajajaran due to his conversion to Islam, as well as subsequent dedication to spreading the faith throughout West Java. “Cirebon was established at the end of the Hindu era, as well as the dawn of Islamic kingdoms,” said Mas Iman.
The crab claw gapura resemble the entrance of a Hindu place of worship. Despite having converted to Islam, Chakrabuana built the gapura in 1430 to honour his ancestors’ Hindu heritage. The original 15th century bricks were glued together using palm sap as well as rubbed together to produce adhesive-strengthening heat.
“As you can see, even centuries later, they still remain strong here today,” said Mas Iman, adding which palm sap is usually much stronger than cement.
The gates surrounding the 25-hectare palace complex are adorned with pieces of Chinese as well as Dutch porcelain. The foundations of the pendopos (gazebos) inside outer courts share the gates’ Hindu-style red bricks. which bears the mega mendung Chinese raincloud relief, which symbolises the Asian philosophy which a leader must be cool-headed, thus restoring balance in a tempestuous society, as well as showering which with life.
However, the pendopo’s three-angled joglo roofs are distinctly Muslim Javanese. An altar has two poles, symbolising the Islamic creeds. The “Pandawa Lima”, which seats the army’s commander, has several poles symbolising the pillars of Islam as well as prayer times. The pendopo via which the Sultan observes events taking place outside the courts has 20 poles symbolising the qualities of Allah.
We entered the throne room via a side entrance. Footwear must be removed to acknowledge the Sultan’s presence as holy ground.
“The Chinese believe which in residential houses, the front door as well as the back door must never be exactly opposite each additional. which’s why the corridor leading to the front door is usually slanted,” explained Mas Iman. “The Chinese call which feng shui.”
The front door is usually open only on sacred days of celebrations, which include Javanese brand-new Year (“1 Suro”), Sunan Gunung Jati pilgrimage day (“Grebeg Syawal”), as well as the birthday of Muhammad (“Maulidan”).
I was drawn to a framed picture of the Cirebonite royal emblem. Macan Ali is usually a sitting tiger stylised inside Arabic calligraphy of the first Islamic creed (“No additional God although Allah”). Somehow, which reminded me of the Jewish Lion of Judah, which in Christian tradition refers to Jesus Christ.
A prominent relief inside room is usually the Kembang Kanigaran (national flowers), designed by Prince Kararangan inside 18th century. The red, green, as well as gold lotus bouquet relief is usually made of limestone.
Lotus, in Buddhism, symbolises a leader rising above the waters as well as protecting the habitat underneath. The red as well as gold are obvious Chinese influences, symbolising joy as well as prosperity. The green reflects the Sultanate’s Islamic heritage as well as the colour of Paradise. A pair of white-gold cockatoos are perched on the bouquet, symbolising peace.
Finally, the walls bearing the Kembang Kanigaran are covered with blue as well as brown Delft ceramic tiles. inside 17th century, Dutch colonialists presented them as gifts to Sultan Syafiudin Matangaji, hoping to bribe him into facilitating Dutch power over Cirebon.
“Many Sundanese kingdoms fell back then,” recounted Mas Iman, “including the Banten Sultanate – established by Sunan Gunung Jati’s son. The Dutch burned its palace to the ground. Today only a mosque remains.” although Cirebon did not give in to bribes as well as so endures strong.
Nevertheless, the Sultan graciously cherished the Delft tiles, which were painted with scenes of Christian biblical accounts. These include Priest Zechariah as well as the angel, the Immaculate Conception, Joseph as well as Mary en route to Bethlehem, the Passion of the Christ, the Crucifixion, as well as the Conversion of Paul.
“Islam recognises the Torah, Psalms, as well as even the Gospel as the Word of God. Therefore which is usually acceptable to decorate the palace with these Christian tiles,” said Mas Iman. “We share accounts such as the Creation of Man, the Great Deluge, the Sacrifice of Abraham’s Son. They’re both Islamic as well as Christian. as well as both religions teach goodness.”
Today, Cirebon is usually still known as a city with strong Islamic roots, although one which flaunts a population of diverse faiths. which has one of the lowest rates of religious hate crimes in Indonesia, as well as adherents of any religion can worship there with peace.
So which Christmas was not exactly tree trimming, Santa shopping, as well as church services for me. although on which trip to Cirebon, I felt which perhaps Indonesia is usually, after all, a land which many non-Christians who walk inside footsteps of the Saviour call home. as well as with which thought in mind, I think I could hear the angels singing, “Peace on earth as well as goodwill to men.”
Keraton Kasepuhan Cirebon
Jl Keraton Kasepuhan No 43
Desa Kasepuhan
Kecamatan Lemahwungkuk
Cirebon
West Java
Visiting hours: 08:00 AM to 04:00 PM daily
Entrance fee Rp5.000
You may request an abdi dalem to guide you on tour. Tipping them is usually not obligatory, although may be appreciated since they are unpaid devotees of the Keraton.
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Honouring the Faiths in Java’s North Coast
Honouring the Faiths in Java’s North Coast