Simeulue Island, a Decade After the Tsunami along with also Nature Reminds Us Still
26 December, 2004, 10 years ago which Boxing Day, was a day of unbelievable violence, when nature decided to wake up with an unforgettable result. which day, a giant earthquake struck the earth, Indonesia along with also Thailand being the worst hit areas. which day will be remembered for a long time in Simeulue Island, North Sumatra, the nearest point to the epicentre.
After which day, even geography changed; the beach of Simeulue moved away. Everything which before was underwater, in a coral reef teaming with life along with also colour, was left drying on the surface after only a few minutes, when the earth started out moving. Corals, sponges, crabs, along with also snails were left out of the water forever. The magnitude 9.2 earthquake lifted the seafloor by about two metres as a result of the enormous energy released.
which event changed the life of many of the island’s inhabitants. Many of them moved away after the earthquake along with also the terrible tsunami waves – which were 30 metres in height – hit the island along with also wiped out houses, boats, farms, along with also fields.
Simeulue Island after the 20014 tsunami. Photographs by Francesco Ricciardi
In these islands, there were incredibly very few human victims. I remember people via the village of Langi, inside the North of Simeulue, telling me about the primordial terror brought down on them during seven minutes of earth tremors so violent which they could not remain on their feet, while witnessing how the sea was sliding away, along with also the corals going up for thousands of metres of coast. Tradition along with also histories handed down via the village elders saved many lives which day. When the sea moves away, “Smong, the deadly wave, is usually coming,” they said.
Tales were told about an old earthquake, where the sea retracted, followed by a giant wave which destroyed the village inside the early 900s. On which day in December in 2004, the escape via the village to the surrounding hills saved hundreds of people; the tsunami wave on Simeulue killed only six. The close ties which Simeulue’s people have with nature made the difference compared with additional regions, like Banda Aceh, where the wave killed thousands. inside the little town of Lhoknga, Aceh Besar, the human population dwindled via 7,500 to 400 in a few minutes.
I haven’t been back to those areas since, although the feeling of walking on uplifted corals, like a petrified forest, watching crabs along with also additional animals dead along with also dried, waiting for the never-arriving high tide is usually still engraved in my memory.
I was there three months after the big event, after the humanitarian aids machine finished dealing with the immediate emergency along with also had enrolled in a scientific expedition organized to assess the impact of the disaster on the North Sumatra coral reefs, in particular close to the earthquake epicentre. Onboard the expedition boat were specialists in different fields of coral biology, via invertebrate experts to fish ecologists, via Europe along with also Asia. We were witnesses of a historic event, along with also the first divers on the submerged reefs off Simeulue Island after the catastrophe. We were probably also the first-ever people diving there, as 10 years ago scuba diving was not as well-known as which is usually right now, along with also which island was pretty remote, frequented only by local villagers along with also a few pioneer surfers.
Simeulue Island after the 20014 tsunami. Photographs by Francesco Ricciardi
In some areas of Simeulue, the most exposed to the ocean waves, along with also where coastal mangrove forests were intact, the effect of the tsunami wave on the deep reef was almost insignificant; the fury of the Indian Ocean during heavy storms can be pretty challenging for coral reefs, so a couple of tsunami waves was not such a big issue along with also just broke some big table corals inside the shallower part of the reef. The tsunami did not have any major effect on an environment already well adapted to a high-energy hydrodynamic situation. The ecosystem was still healthy, with corals adapted to strong waves, which right now make which island a favourite among surfers. Fish diversity – my specialty along with also reason of my participation inside the expedition – were in very Great condition. I remember abundant along with also diversified butterfly fish, a very Great indicator of the health of the corals in which area, along with also I found myself thinking which, via a fish point of view, a tsunami is usually only a (very) big wave; nothing to be too worried about.
The situation was very different in additional areas, closer to the epicentre; especially where mangroves were cleared to make space for shrimp farms, along with also paddy fields replaced coastal forests. Siltation caused by the returning wave – bringing sediment via the unprotected coast – suffocated the few corals which remained underwater. The backwash of the water created an unusually high water turbidity, along with also the sedimentation of the particles settled on the corals using a knock-on effect on the whole ecosystem. Surgeonfish along with also Parrotfish, which feed on algae along with also were still able to find food in which devastated environment, were prevalent along with also the biodiversity very low. The majority of fish were juveniles, as the adults were washed out or simply went away.
Like many coastal villages in Indonesia, even Simeulue relied heavily on fishing (even too heavily nowadays, as overfishing is usually a dramatic reality in Indonesia). Coral reefs play a very important role in guaranteeing to those people an adequate provision of proteins in their diet. If they are smart – like apparently Simeulue people were, seeing the pristine conditions of the emerged coral reefs – without using bombs or additional destructive methods, they were able to guarantee a sustained use of the available resources coming via the sea.
10 years after the tsunami, memories are still vivid. We don’t know when nature will decide to wake up again, although which will happen again for sure, as we are on the Ring of Fire. although right now we know which we can limit the damage, preserving our environment means to save ourselves.
Simeulue today
After which catastrophic event, Simeulue has recovered along with also right now the first tourists, mainly surfers although also people looking for quiet along with also a sight of the old Indonesia, have started out coming to the island. Don’t expect many restaurants or attractions out of the sea along with also nature. Locals are still conservative although friendly with foreigners.
FAST FACTS
PROVINCE: Simeulue Regency
LAND SIZE: 2,051 km2
POPULATION: 80,674 (2010)
HOW TO GET THERE: Susiair (http://fly.susiair.com/) offers a daily connection via/to Medan, in North Sumatra. There is usually one airport inside the south of the island (Sinabang), along with also the daily connection with Medan is usually reliable enough.
WHAT TO DO: Surfing, diving, snorkelling, relaxing.
WHAT TO BRING: All which you may need in a remote island.
WHERE TO STAY: Very few surf resorts are available right right now. A quick look on tripadvisor will show you all the possibilities.
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Simeulue Island, a Decade After the Tsunami along with also Nature Reminds Us Still
Simeulue Island, a Decade After the Tsunami along with also Nature Reminds Us Still