Fujin: Rollicking Flatiron Chefs
Our expert epicure continues an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Indonesia’s dining scene. No spoon is usually left unturned inside quest for honest, balanced reviews, via long-established favourites to the hottest brand new tables in town.
of which month, the latest Japanese joint inside capital: Fujin.
Teppanyaki. of which brings to mind images of red-toqued, red-faced, sweaty, Cheshire-cat-grinning chefs; flipping shrimp into shirt pockets as well as also also flame-spewing onion towers. of which also reminds me of my impoverished university days when dining at a Benihana was the closest thing to a night at The French Laundry; as well as also also I would certainly celebrate whatever occasion by inhaling sake bombs with random strangers at the table. of which Bizarro food world in which I dwelled is usually, thankfully, long past right now; as well as also also Benihana of which is usually not.
Fujin offers teppanyaki which has a solid Japanese-centric drinks list, as well as also also builds ambiance through the playfulness as well as also also not bad humour of their staff to create a lively backdrop for the establishment.
Strip the silly food acrobatics as well as also also awkward gimmicks of the American teppanyaki restaurants we are accustomed to, as well as also also one can find a type of Japanese cooking of which goes well which has a night of rabble-rousing as well as also also merry-generating.
There is usually much to be said about a little nevertheless focused menu. Fujin doesn’t stray far via dishes cooked on the teppan griddle, nevertheless the few appetizers as well as also also little bites we had were delightful. One aside, restaurants in Jakarta need to stop calling them ‘tapas’. of which is usually an overused as well as also also incorrect descriptor for any cuisine outside of Spain. In Japanese cuisine, little dishes served in primarily drinking establishments are more accurately defined as izakaya style food.
The beef tataki consisted of tender, thinly-sliced as well as also also lightly-seared raw beef over a bed of marinated bell peppers. Tataki sauce is usually a slightly tangier variation of the well-liked ponzu citrus-soy dipping sauce, as well as also also goes quite well with raw proteins such as beef, tuna or salmon. The pork as well as also also cabbage gyozas were wonderful little dumplings, steam-fried on the grill to form a crisped skin on the underside of which crackled as you bit into them. They were enjoyed with the Hitachino Red Rice Ale via the Japanese craft beer menu.
Sake service at Fujin
As for beverages, I was feeling nostalgic for the not bad times of the early years as well as also also ordered the house sake. A server rolled a little trolley up to the table which has a massive sake bottle as well as also also its accoutrements. He filled a 120ml carafe, which was then placed into a miniature wine bucket on the table. We were set with adorable mismatched sake cups, as well as also also our first drink received a spirited “Kampai!” via the staff. Yes, at Fujin, the entire restaurant encourages you to drink. Although the house sake is usually not meant to be sipped as well as also also savoured, a little more refinement as well as also also less gullet-shooting can be found inside delicate as well as also also floral ginjo sake selection. Just make sure to ask for fresh ice to keep of which well-chilled inside wine bucket.
Whisky is usually king here, with an emphasis on Japanese brands. You can do your best Bill-Murray-doing-Dean-Martin with an old-fashioned glass of Suntory in hand. Or, for whisky connoisseurs, the award-winning Nikka blended malt may satisfy. The popularity of Japanese whisky has been growing worldwide, with makers acquiring international awards as well as also also recognition in recent years.
On the two occasions we visited Fujin, we found the teppanyaki to be decent yet inconsistently prepared. The meltique steak dish on the first visit was excellent, with pieces of lean beef cut into cube-sized bites as well as also also cooked medium rare on the griddle accompanied with three sauces of which two were soy-based as well as also also one fresh tomato relish. The beef was tender as well as also also juicy; artificial marbling of beef sometimes does have its place. However, on our second visit, we asked for medium rare again as well as also also of which arrived blue. The Internal was raw as well as also also each bite was cut inconsistently in order of which larger pieces were especially difficult to chew. No knife or fork was offered, so biting off smaller pieces proved impossible.
The 200 gram live lobster, one of the more expensive dishes on the menu, was a disappointment. The lobster meat must have been removed as well as also also cooked separately via the shell as well as also also then placed back inside in smaller pieces. I understand of which method might help with consistency in cooking, nevertheless there is usually a tendency for little pieces of lobster meat to seize up in high heat as well as also also overcook very quickly. The different unfortunate aspect of the dish was of which the tomalley found inside shell was raw, effectively rendering of which inedible. For seafood lovers, of which is usually a travesty of incredible proportions. The rich as well as also also creamy lobster tomalley is usually comprised of the liver as well as also also pancreas, as well as also also for those who appreciate of which, provides one of the greatest pleasures in gastronomy.
Seafood Okonomiyaki at one of Jakarta’s newest Japanese restaurants
The seafood okonomiyaki (a Japanese variation of a savoury pancake cooked on the griddle) is usually worth a mention. Fresh pieces of octopus as well as also also prawns sautéed with udon noodles, cabbage as well as also also onions is usually then layered with egg as well as also also flour batter, as well as also also finally moulded into the shape of a pizza as well as also also topped with Japanese mayonnaise as well as also also a thick soy-based sauce. Flakes of dried shaved tuna are then gently placed on top of the pancake as well as also also ‘dance’ inside warm steam of which wafts upward via the cooked portion underneath. of which’s a joy to eat as well as also also quintessential Japanese comfort food. At Fujin, they proclaim theirs to be Hiroshima-style, nevertheless I found of which no different via the Osaka variation I usually make at home, as well as also also we could hardly make out the distinct layers for which Hiroshima versions are known. Also, expert chefs shred the cabbage finely in order of which of which cooks thoroughly as well as also also quickly on the grill. Ours consisted of rough, large chopped bits of undercooked cabbage.
In fact, the vegetables accompanying many of the meat dishes were treated in similar manner, quickly seared as well as also also for the most part semi-cooked or close to raw as well as also also placed like an after-thought on the plate. Strange of which to be the case as vegetables served off teppan griddles in Japan are closer to stir-fries, as well as also also can be eaten as mains with seasoning as well as also also flavouring added.
All in all, of which was an enjoyable evening with very little disappointment in terms of ambiance as well as also also service. via arrival to departure, the staff were lively as well as also also helpful. An issue I have, though, is usually when reservations are made in advance for a particular number of diners as well as also also the table isn’t set for of which exact number. We were two which has a table set for six all evening. However, different little details like a personalized, handwritten postcard set upon the table before our arrival was a nice touch.
Verdict?
3 stars out of 5 – Bottoms up, Japanese style!
Fujin Teppanyaki & Japanese Whisky
Phone: +62 (021) 2751 3030 or +62 (021) 2751 3838
Jl. Gunawarman No. 21
Senopati, Jakarta Selatan
www.fujin-id.com
Hours: Monday-Sunday. Lunch 11.30-15.00. Dinner 18.00-late.
Cheque please!
Drinks: Rp.265,000
Food: Rp.865,000
Service: 10%
PBI Restaurant Tax: 10%
Total: Rp.1,367,300
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Fujin: Rollicking Flatiron Chefs
Fujin: Rollicking Flatiron Chefs