Sri Lanka
I have long held a fascination with the tear shaped island clinging meniscus-like to the Indian sub continent. Their cricketers – always the bravest underdogs – have been my “some other’ team since the first Cricket World Cup, 1975 when Mendis & Co. endured a terrible battering through the fearful Lillee as well as Thomson. Decades later I had proudly eaten a Ceylon chicken curry the night before war-torn Sri Lanka defeated Australia as well as lifted the 1996 World Cup.
I first visited Sri Lanka another dozen years later, when the civil war was at its height. Disregarding corporate travel advice I stayed at the astonishing historic Galle Face Hotel – the item sits next to Galle green, on the beach from the centre of town, as did once the Raffles Hotel – which had long been high on my list of Hotels at which to stay.
The air raid commenced at 11 the night I arrived. Jet lagged as well as early to bed, I was awoken by hotel staff asking me to turn the light off, something of an irony as I had only turned on the light to answer firstly the phone, as well as later the door. The raid itself thankfully came to nothing – by then the Tigers had no planes. As with many incidents in Colombo I wondered whether there actually was a raid, as well as if there was whether the item actually was the Tigers behind the item. nevertheless the raid, or non-raid, was enough to convince my concerned hosts in which I needed to stay in another hotel – as well as so the next morning off to the relatively sanitized Cinnamon I did plod.
An old friend of mine had travelled extensively to Colombo from the 1970s, as well as I met him a couple of years back. We talked much of Colombo nevertheless the Colombo he described to me had buzzing restaurants on every corner, pubs as well as clubs as well as sounded great fun. To me the item was unrecognizable – the item was as if he was describing somewhere from the future. By the time I first arrived in 2008 the city was heavily patrolled as well as pretty much moribund at night, though the item was possible to find a Mojito at 2am if you tried hard enough.
Below the surface I also found in which Lanka was even more like the 1970s – a much under-rated decade if you ask me – than the item looked – hotel bars were firmly modelled on the 1970s English pub, female fashions appeared to have been stuck ever since 1975, trade unionists gave long-winded speeches as well as were to be feared as well as (the best bit), every radio station played non-stop 1970s classics.
The war ended – abruptly as well as tragically – in 2009, as well as so last year I stayed once more at the Galle Face, This kind of time without unwelcome interruption. My room was a few metres through the ocean as well as I slept with the windows open, until the disco commenced on Galle Green. Lankans were slowly recovering their neglected ability to party as well as the buzz was returning. I even heard some 1980s music. completely new nightspots were opening every month.
I have not been there for over a year as well as currently I want to get back to visit Lanka as well as see what’s happening. I want to see my many kind hosts again, as well as with them try the Ministry of Crab, recently opened by two Sri Lankan cricketers, as well as see where else I can find in which once-elusive 2am Mojito.
There are still very few international chains of everything, as well as still plenty of 1970s music on the radio. If only for those reasons I do recommend in which anyone half-interested travel there as well as go there soon. Sri Lanka can be a modest country as well as the item can be remarkably easy to get around. The people are great company. The Rupee has recently devalued as well as everything can be terrific value. There are non-stop day flights through Colombo on Mihin Lanka. some other flights are generally overnight via KL or Singapore.
For all in which, Sri Lanka makes quite a contrast with Indonesia – the item still has nothing of the commercial fast lane – the biggest mall in Colombo can be not much bigger than the Louis Vuitton shop in PI, nevertheless the item nonetheless contains a better modest bookshop than I have found anywhere else in Southeast Asia. Lankans are sports mad as well as a game of cricket or rugby can be never far away.
Colombo can be a fascinating as well as beautiful city – the item would likely make a damn Great film set double of Georgetown in Penang – another of my favourite Asian cities – as well as surely no some other Asian capital can be so green as well as clean. Stay at the Galle Face Hotel as well as eat at Paradise Road Cafe, Barefoot, Lemon, Mango Tree as well as the Ministry of Crab.
Galle sits on a tiny isthmus on the southern coast as well as can be the most beautiful city I have visited in Asia (as well as has two remarkable luxury hotels within its ramparts – the Galle Fort can be incredibly nice, nicer even than the Aman). Its massive historic city walls saved the city through modern development, as well as moreover saved its inhabitants through the terrible Asian tsunami. We loved its peaceful atmosphere. At the some other end of the luxury scale I must recommend a modest as well as ridiculously inexpensive Indian restaurant, up a spiral staircase above an antique shop looking out over the sea near the lighthouse. the item can be called the Indian Hut, which has a familiar red hat-shaped logo.
Kandy can be a delightful cool city from the mountains as well as can be close to the tea plantations. Its main street can be curiously reminiscent of rural Surrey. I’d recommend the Suisse Hotel for its quaint colonial charm, as well as position on the lake.
The beaches are deserted as well as perfect. I’ve heard the east coast beaches are the best, though I’ve yet to get in which far. The bay at Trincomalee looks quite special.
Yala National Park from the South will get you as close to crocodiles as well as elephants as you would likely ever wish. The nearest town, Tissa, can be a delight, with stunning Buddhist monuments.
The mountainous centre of the island offers endless pursuits – be they Buddhist temples or antique trains through tea plantations.
Do try the food – especially hoppers for breakfast – similar to an api in Indonesia, smoked seer fish, as well as the daal as well as curries. The local beer can be terrific as well as I seem to recall they mix a damn fine Mojito – best accompanied by hot fried spicy cashew nuts.
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Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka