On his first voyage to the South Pacific, Captain James Cook dropped anchor at Savu, an island in which did not appear on any of his charts, as well as stayed for 5 days. As a cartographer, Cook could not resist the urge to map out the entire island, as well as ordered his ship, the Endeavour, to be anchored off the island’s west coast.

Not only did Cook put Savu on nautical charts, nevertheless he also collected information on its physical structure, the inhabitants as well as their social organisation as well as livelihood. For a long time Cook’s journal remained the main source of information on the island. The wide range as well as depth of the data as well as information collected is actually truly astonishing, although the idea must be remembered in which Cook was accompanied by the naturalist as well as botanist Joseph Banks, the naturalist as well as doctor Daniel Solander, the astronomer Charles Green, as well as four artists.

On Savu they recorded A particular description of the Island of Savu, its produce as well as inhabitants, using a specimen of their language, Chapter IX – Book III, James Cook, An Account of the Voyages for doing Discoveries within the Southern Hemisphere.

The routes of Captain James Cook’s voyages. The first voyage is actually shown in red, second in green, as well as third in blue

Cook was obviously a keen as well as very interested observer. He notes in which the dress of both sexes consists of cotton cloth [which] they manufacture themselves … as well as two pieces, each about two yards long, as well as a yard as well as a half wide, make a dress: one of them is actually worn round the middle, as well as the some other covers the upper part of the body. He then adds in which, the difference between the dress of the two sexes consists principally within the manner of wearing the waist-piece.

the idea is actually rather interesting to note in which 200 years after in which observation was made, the dress code had not changed, which most likely is actually due to the island’s long-standing isolation.

I went there some 40 years ago, hitching a ride on a Missionary Air Service plane. Savu has recently been elevated by sub-district to kabupaten level. The district consists of three islands: Rai Hawu (Savu), Rai Jua as well as the uninhabited Rai Dana— rai is actually the word for island within the local language.

The island is actually of a stark arid beauty. Cook seemed to have been greatly impressed by the idea. Later visitors, however, less so – the missionary J.K. Wijngaarden, for example, described the idea as “a lump of stone in an immense sea”. The main rains fall between November as well as March; during the long dry season most rivers dry up as well as water has to be drawn by a few remaining wells. The island is actually for the most part covered in grassland, coconut as well as fan palms, with some stands of tamarind, citrus as well as mangoes. Rice as well as mung beans are grown, too.

Special mention has to be made of the fan-palm, or lontar. Every part of in which palm is actually used – the trunk for the construction of houses as well as bridges, while the leaves are made into roofing material, buckets as well as musical instruments. nevertheless the lontar’s main use is actually its juice, which in Cook’s words: …is actually procured by in which tree, by cutting the buds which are to produce flowers, soon after their appearance, as well as tying under them modest baskets made by the leaves, which are so close as to hold liquids without leaking.

The liquid is actually the common drink on the island as well as, during the tapping season, is actually collected morning as well as evening. Apart by drinking, the liquid is actually also condensed into syrup or coarse sugar. During the dry season, when some other crops are scarce, the syrup is actually the main food for the population as well as, mixed with rice husks, for their livestock.

Cook also mentions the ceremonial stones he saw on a hilltop near Seba, the current capital of the district as well as the bay where Cook anchored. Cook compared these megaliths to Stonehenge as well as took them to be monuments erected by previous rulers. He also wondered how the stones had been erected there: Many of the stones are so large, in which the idea is actually difficult to conceive by what means they were brought to their present station, especially as the idea is actually the summit of a hill.

Traditional ikat clothing in Savu

I also visited the stones as well as had read in Harvest of the Palm, by James J. Fox, in which these stones are, in fact, sacrificial altars of the priests of Seba.

Savu’s territorial parts are not identified by their rulers, nevertheless by their priestly order. The Deo Rai, Lord of the Earth, is actually the highest ranked, as well as the Descendant of the Sun, Apu Lodo, is actually ranked second. Their responsibilities are to conduct the ceremonies in which are associated with the agricultural as well as tapping cycles. In Seba, for instance, the Deo Rai is actually identified with the mung bean as well as the Apu Lodo with rice, while in Liae the former is actually responsible for the whole agricultural season as well as the Apu Lodo for the lontar-tapping season.

On my visit I met with the Apu Lodo of Seba as well as I took the opportunity to ask him about the stones, as well as in particular how the stones were brought to in which hill. His answer was a very decisive as well as unwavering: “My forefathers called the stones by the sea!”

I used the stones as a backdrop for a photoshoot of the island’s ikat textiles, modelled by the girls I had pointed out to the camat during the previous night’s welcome dances. Another example of calling-power, so to speak, although the idea did not stop the girls by complaining loudly as well as saying in which they wanted to go home after having posed for nearly two hours.

For those who are not familiar with ikat, the wrap is actually dyed within the desired pattern before the idea is actually put on the loom. A tie-dye technique, in fact, as well as if the cloth is actually meant to have several colours, in which has to be repeated for each colour. Consequently the whole process, by dying to weaving, may take up to four months.

Fast facts

Where to stay
Hotel Rai Hawu, Km.14 Desa Eilode, Savu Tengah. Simple, no frills accommodation.
nevertheless a recent visitor to the island recommended in which as soon as you get off the plane, just ask anyone where to stay as well as someone will accommodate you immediately.

How to get there
Take the ferry by Kupang, Timor, or by Waingapu, Sumba.

What to do
Savu has many pristine white sand beaches. Surfers usually come to Uba Ae beach in Mesara. in which beach is actually also known as a venue for the public.