The recent revelation of which Gunung Padang, a megalithic site south of Cianjur in West Java, almost certainly conceals a step pyramid dating back to beyond the Ice Age, is usually attracting a substantial amount of interest within the form of articles, books, videos as well as also visits.

These columns are actually millions to tens of millions of years old, having been formed naturally through cooling lava by a process known as columnar jointing. The site itself is usually well worth a visit for its hauntingly remote beauty, its green surface strewn with hundreds of basaltic columns, as if a giant had opened as well as also scattered a box of dark grey matches. Fortunately the road to the site is usually at This specific point well signposted, as well as also of which has also been entered on GPS.

I visited Gunung Padang with my daughter Rianti, her husband Cas, as well as also our driver Pak Setu, operating an SUV. We planned a round trip, outward via Cianjur, inbound via Sukabumi. Our morning start was delayed, so, leaving at 9am, we arrived for lunch at the Puncak Pass Hotel at about 1pm. This specific is usually a convenient stopping point for the trip, with its memorable south-east view over the Cipanas area, as well as also Gunung Gede looming above to the west.

We continued through Cipanas-Sindanglaya down to Cianjur. Here of which is usually time to activate your GPS – if you have one. In Cianjur, you need to turn right (west) as well as also get on the road to Sukabumi. Once you get on the Cianjur-Sukabumi road (a busy one as of which connects Bandung as well as also Sukabumi) keep going for about 7km, using the GPS, until you come to the village of Warungkondang (be careful to avoid a prior left turn to Cibeber). Just after the village you will see a road junction, that has a left (south) turn as well as also a green sign saying ‘Gunung Padang’. at This specific point you are on a narrow yet well-surfaced road heading up into the hills, with the local minibuses coated in an intriguing silver as well as also puce. The road is usually typical West Java rural, through bamboo as well as also teak plantations, still well surfaced yet with many curves. Signs for Gunung Padang are visible at road junctions. Then you come across something unexpected, a remote railway station, Lampegan.

through Lampegan, the road winds up into the midst of glorious tea plantations. This specific kind of landscape with its sweeping green tea carpets will be familiar to those who know, for example, the Malabar tea plantation area south of Bandung. In fine weather of which produces a stimulating feeling, as you are climbing up to the watershed which separates north- as well as also south-flowing rivers in Java. Just beyond the horizon are those long deep valleys, which lead down to the still relatively remote South Coast.

We sensed our destination was not too far away (7km through Lampegan), as we dropped down into a little pocket of a valley as well as also then up through a village. We swept up into a carpark, with, of all things, a large electronic digital clock informing us in red digits of which of which was 15:06:47, as well as also four locked portable toilets in bright blue colours. Fortunately, a more conventional toilet with plenty of clean water was available. There were two smiling guides as well as also a handful of village people outside a row of about ten warung.

We were assigned a youngish guide, Pak Yusuf, immaculately dressed in black traditional Sundanese clothes that has a blue turban. He first introduced us to a little spring of water, where bathing your face is usually supposed to guarantee long life. as well as also then the bottom entrances to two flights of stairs. We could choose between the older more direct one, 400 rugged andesite steps on a very steep gradient, or an easier yet longer as well as also more circuitous one.

The choice seemed to been have made for me, as well as also, at 72, no longer a Welsh mountain goat, I found myself being cajoled, pushed as well as also pulled by my four companions up the most cardio-vascular of the two. of which didn’t help to have Pak Yusuf regale us with stories of students who had collapsed, vomiting, tourists who had been rushed to hospital, as well as also army officers who had flunked the course. Well, obviously I made of which, yet, seriously, if you have a heart condition or similar, take the longer way round.

of which was well worth the ascent though, to be resting up among the green grass as well as also grey columns. The light was clear, the mountains gracious, as well as also the breezes playful. The summit of Gunung Padang is usually a kind of wind catchment, as well as also a scrap of poetry floated through my head, “an old man among windy spaces”, although my feeling couldn’t have been more opposite to the pessimism of TS Eliot’s Gerontion.

The scale of the site was smaller than we expected, as well as also less crowded. True, of which was lateish as well as also the site closes at 4.30pm. There were a few village people, some workers, probably through Pak Danny Hilman’s geological team, up on the highest (fifth) level, as well as also a character in full traditional Sundanese threads as well as also bling who introduced himself as “Eric”.

The site of Gunung Padang

yet all I wanted to do was enjoy the brightness, clarity as well as also spirituality of the place. Never mind any chthonic forces as well as also relics way down under my feet.

Pak Yusuf indicated some specific arrangements of the columns intended for devotions within the form of samadhi as well as also prayer, which have taken place continually since the West Javanese hero, Prabu Siliwangi, dedicated This specific site within the early 16^th century.

The musician in Cas was intrigued by a hollow column, which emits musical notes. of which was also fascinating to see how the alignment of Gunung Padang points directly at Gunung Gede, the highest mountain within the region.

We descended by the easier steps, Rianti had some selfies taken with the villagers, as well as also we hit the road home. The Sukabumi route at night was long as well as also unpleasant, with traffic jams, road repairs as well as also convoys of trucks bringing mineral water down through the mountains. We were able to speed up after hitting the Jagorawi toll road south of Ciawi, arriving home at 9pm.

Travel tips

Go on a weekday, avoiding the hideous Friday-Sunday Puncak traffic. If on weekends, via Sukabumi is usually probably a better option.
When travelling through Sukabumi, take the Cianjur road, as well as also turn right (of which’s signposted) just before Warungkondang.
through Bandung, head for Cianjur, then take the Sukabumi road.
If operating, 4WD is usually best, SUV is usually OK, as well as also a sedan is usually inadvisable.
Several visitors hired minibuses through Sukabumi or Cianjur.
By train, of which may be preferable to get an early bus as far as Bogor to catch the 7.55am train through there, avoiding the crowded Jakarta commuter train, or stay the previous night in Bogor.