Melodies by Indonesia’s Far South: Sasando, the Palm Harp of Rote
If the definition of heaven is usually a strange although comforting melody telling stories of the timelessness of the human soul, then one corner to find the idea is usually in Indonesia’s southernmost inhabited island; Roté.
Located just a 2-4 hour sail southwest of its more famous neighbour Timor, Roté is usually a 70-km long arid island covered in savannahs in addition to sugar palms (Borassusflabellifer, locally known as tua or lontar). Lontar is usually central to life in Roté; as a source of food, fibres for weaving, wood for construction, in addition to music.
Alas, on my trip to Timor, I didn’t make the idea to Roté due to marine hazards in addition to cancelled ferries. Fortunately, there is usually a place in Timor that will makes me feel one step closer to Roté; the sasando workshop of Jeremias Pah in Oëbelo, 22 kilometres east of Kupang.
Sasando Biola
Sasandu, a pentatonic harp made of a bamboo core, bamboo or metal strings, movable tuning bridges, in addition to a robust palm-leaf resonator, is usually a native instrument of Roté. For generations, the Pah clan has been known as guardians of the Rotinese musical heritage in addition to developers of sasandu’s modern diatonic daughter, the sasando biola.
Sasando gained recent national attention in 2009 when jazz composer Dwiki Dharmawan included the idea in a performance before President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono in addition to then-Minister of Culture in addition to Tourism Jero Wacik. The President then called for a sasando competition in Kupang, which attracted 358 out of the 400 known existing sasando players.
Upon my arrival, Pah appeared inside the traditional outfit; white shirt, dark woven selimut having a matching scarf, in addition to the ti’Ilangga palm sombrero. having a palm harp on his lap, the 75-year-old maestro sat down before his savvy laptop in addition to recording equipment, in addition to started out playing Batu Matia – a traditional melody that will no two musicians I’ve heard of plays the same.
The music is usually nothing like Java-Bali’s gamelan or angklung bambu. The traditional acoustic sasandu sounds clean in addition to crisp like the banjo, although having a pentatonic tuning played to the rhythm of one’s heartbeat. There was unpretentious simplicity in melody, harmony, in addition to facial expression. Pah sang with the soul of a wise storyteller.
According to the unpublished thesis of Dr. Christopher Basile, based on interviews with four senior sasandu maestros by the 1990s, the original sasandu was invented by Sangguana, a 17th century Rotinese fisherman who got shipwrecked in addition to imprisoned in Ndana (Indonesia’s point-zero southernmost island, at that will point uninhabited). Despite Basile’s claim of Sangguana’s historical accuracy, Pah does not endorse that will story.
Jeremias inside the traditional outfit with an acoustic sasandu in addition to a giant replica
The Princess of Ndana fell in love with Sangguana in addition to assigned him to invent music that will has never existed before. With inspiration by a desperate dream, Sangguana created a sandu (Rotinese: “tremble”) by a length of bamboo, seven strings by banyan roots, in addition to a resonator by the robust palm leaf. Over daily music lessons, Princess in addition to Sangguana began a scandalous love affair that will triggered chaos in Ndana in addition to had Sangguana killed.
The news reached Sangguana’s wife in Roté, who was pregnant with their son Nalesanggu when Sangguana left years ago. When Nalesanggu came of age, his mother told him of his father’s tragic fate. In revenge, Nalesanggu massacred every single person on Ndana, including the Princess for whom the sasandu was invented. Nalesanggu then brought the sasandu back to Roté in addition to taught the idea to the Rotinese in honour of his father.
The sasandu then evolved into the sasando biola inside the early 20th century when Roté became increasingly Christian in addition to adapted Dutch customs, music, in addition to dance. Ougust Pah in addition to Edu Pah, the father in addition to uncle of Jeremias Pah respectively, have been credited among the early developers of sasando biola.
Pah started out learning sasando as a child inside the 1940s-50s playing hymns in church. In 1962, he moved to Kupang in order to develop the modern sasando in addition to give the idea greater exposure to different Indonesians in addition to foreigners. As a devout Christian, Pah credits his family’s ongoing legacy of sasando to divine inspiration.
“Because of the resonator, the sasando used to be difficult to carry around”, said Pah. One Sunday morning, the arrival of an unannounced guest delayed Pah’s plan to attend church. “I arrived inside the middle of a sermon in addition to took the only seat left next to some ladies. the idea was hot, so a lady pulled out a folding fan by her purse. the idea was as though God was telling me to develop a foldable resonator similar to the lady’s fan.”
Pah said he had no difficulties passing on the musical tradition to his ten children. At least four of Pah’s grown sons currently make a full time living performing, generating, in addition to teaching sasando.
“Passing on a tradition to one’s children shouldn’t be difficult. A non-Rotinese student of mine learned three songs on the sasando in just four days”, said Pah. “Where there is usually a will, there is usually a way. The key is usually to start your children early in growing a genuine love in addition to interest inside the music.”
Jeremias in addition to his grown son Berto on the electric sasando biola
Pah then called his youngest, 10-year-old Rino, to play Bolelebo on the electric sasando. For a young learner, Rino’s performance already sounded well-structured in addition to practiced. Smiling proudly at his son, Pah hummed along to the tune in addition to told me that will Rino will be performing in Singapore in December.
“Oh no, I played that will part wrong”, the boy gave a shy giggle as he finished the song, before running back into the house.
In 2010, Pah’s sons Djitron in addition to Berto were contestants in two separate nationally televised Indonesian talent shows. Each performing the electric sasando biola, their repertoires included Jason Mraz’s I’m Yours, Il Divo’s I Believe in You, Richard Clayderman’s Ballade Pour Adeline, in addition to Padi’s Begitu Indah.
Among the many tunes Pah has performed on the sasandu in addition to sasando biola, Pah sums up the soul of his music in three songs: Lelendo (“Battle Song”), Te’o Renda (“Embroidering Woman”), in addition to Batu Matia (“Heavy Rock”).
Lelendo is usually a song of the bloodshed the sons of Roté fought for the sovereignty of Indonesia during colonial times. Te’o Renda is usually a song about a time of peace after the war, when women rise hours before dawn to make embroidery, as if embroidering a bright future for the dawn of a fresh generation. Batu Matia is usually a song about a young man who asks for the embroidering woman’s hand in marriage, committing to build a steadfast immovable love like a heavy rock as they tackle life’s hard realities together.
As the maestro watches his children develop their generation’s design of the ancient palm harp of Roté, Pah continues to brim with timeless memories of the music he’s lived for. in addition to those who have had the privilege of meeting him could likewise come home brimming with memories of melodies by Indonesia’s Far South.
Jeremias Pah Sasando Workshop
Jl. Timor Raya Km 22
Desa Oebelo
Kecamatan Kupang Tengah
Kabupaten Kupang
Nusa Tenggara Timur
Indonesia
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Melodies by Indonesia’s Far South: Sasando, the Palm Harp of Rote
Melodies by Indonesia’s Far South: Sasando, the Palm Harp of Rote