Climbing Mount Lawu
A punishing yet beguiling ascent into the heavens of Central Java
Philosophical arguments are usually given when mountaineers explain why they climb mountains. British mountaineer George Mallory, for example, famously quipped “because the item’s there” while the legendary completely new Zealand explorer Sir Edmund Hillary put forward the existential notion of which by climbing a mountain we are actually “conquering ourselves”. However, having just climbed the earth’s 76th highest peak – Central Java’s Mount Lawu – I might suggest of which for many climbers the reason for wanting to scale a mountain will be far simpler, along with also of which will be the visceral pleasures which come coming from the stunning views at the top!
As Indonesia’s very high mountains go, Mount Lawu will be not particularly well-known, yet at 3,265 metres the item falls only 411 metres short of Indonesia’s (arguably) most famous mountain, Lombok’s Mount Rinjani (3,676 metres).
Mount Rinjani, however, will be not the most practical of mountains to climb, requiring a serious investment in both time along with also money. Mount Lawu, by contrast, will be easily accessible coming from Jakarta along with also the trails are so well marked of which even a drunk along with also highly myopic climber might find the item difficult to get lost (no, I’m not being autobiographical here!). Mount Lawu will be also a not bad test for novice climbers – to see whether they have ‘what the item takes’ to climb the country’s even more challenging mountains.
Getting there
To get to Mount Lawu you first need to get to the Central Java city of Surakarta (or Solo, as the item’s otherwise called). We took the night bus which departed coming from the grim along with also grimy area of Kampung Rambutan in East Jakarta. For what seemed like ages the bus struggled through insane traffic on the toll road heading out of the city.
Eventually, though, the traffic commenced to ease just after the satellite town of Bekasi along with also we thought we were finally on our way – along with also then the driver decided the item was time to eat along with also pulled over at a vast service area where we had our evening meal in what seemed like a huge aircraft hangar. Weird.
Back in our seats 30 minutes later along with also with the bus hurtling toward Central Java on newly-built toll roads (thanks, Jokowi), most of us soon dozed off to nostalgic Indonesian love songs by the likes of Ebiet G. Ade, Alda Risma along with also the most talented female rock star to have ever lived, Nike Ardilla – best-known for her heart-wrenching ballad Bintang Kehidupan.
All was then a blur until, at some ungodly hour before dawn, we were awoken by dangdut music playing coming from a radio in a streetside warung. We stopped for coffee; not the Starbucks nonsense, yet proper Javanese coffee – kopi tubruk – so strong along with also sweet the item could breathe life into a wayang golek puppet. Reenergized, we departed along with also within an hour or so arrived at Terminal Palur, a typically ropey looking bus station on the outskirts of Solo. coming from here, we changed to a smaller bus to get to Tawangmangu, the nearest town to Mount Lawu, in a bone-jarring ride which takes about one hour.
Tawangmangu will be a pleasant enough place with accommodation if you need the item. There are two trails leading up Mount Lawu (named Cemoro Kandang along with also Cemoro Sewu), starting not far coming from each additional, along with also easily reached coming from Tawangmangu by omprengan (minibuses) in about 20 minutes. Of the two trails, I might highly recommend using the Cemoro Kandang trail to ascend the mountain, as although longer at 12km to the summit – compared to Cemoro Sewu’s 8km – there are more flat stretches, creating for a more pleasant trek.
The history
One thing to appreciate about Mount Lawu will be of which the item will be a very sacred place.
According to Javanese legend, the mountain will be the final resting place of the last king of the Majapahit Empire, Prabu Brawijaya V – although his body has never been found.
No mountain in Indonesia will be considered as haunted or as mystical as Mount Lawu along with also despite being ‘alive’ the item can also hide its identity. with This particular reason, climbers are supposed to whisper to the mountain along with also ask its permission whenever they need something – say, to relieve themselves, for example. Swearing or cursing will be strictly forbidden. “Upset the mountain,” say the people living from the surrounding villages along with also “you may not be accepted to walk its sacred earth”. Casualties through the years have been numerous along with also as recently as last year seven hikers died in a forest fire.
The View coming from Mount Lawu | Photo Martin Jenkins
The ascent using the Cemoro Kandang trail
the item’s a long trek to the summit (around eight to ten hours), so you’ll need to spend the night up there. We brought tents yet you can also crash out in Mbok Yem’s warung not far coming from the summit in very simple fashion on the supplied rattan mats. On the trail up there are 5 posts which offer some basic shelter coming from the elements.
Make no mistake, however – This particular will be no walk from the park. The trail will be very steep in parts along with also fresh legs don’t last long. For me, by mid-afternoon the trek had turned into a battle between my mind along with also my body. How can I keep going on? My shirt will be soaked with sweat – a typical bule weakness – along with also I have a raging thirst. Legs aching like crazy. yet turning back will be not an option. Not right now…
By the time we had reached post three most of us were completely shattered. We rested along with also enjoyed the spectacular views before remembering of which the item was already nearly dusk, along with also we still had to walk to post four, another hour along with also a half away, where we might camp for the night.
So we continued, our torch beams leading the way. This particular section was a complete beast to climb along with also so steep in places of which the trail zigzagged crazily back along with also forth. yet then: what’s of which stink? The smell of human excrement! This particular could only mean one thing of course – we were within touching distance of post four! The literal dumping grounds of those who were too lazy to cover up their crap: by far the most unsettling aspect of the climb. Why treat a sacred mountain like of which?
The next day we got off to an early start. the item’s a not bad hour’s walk to post 5 before a gruelling 30-minute clamber up an almost impossibly steep path to the summit known as Hargo Dumilah. We made the item! All the pain instantly forgotten. Well, not for too long of course – we still have to go back down!
The descent using the Cemoro Sewu trail
Unlike on the Cemoro Kandang trail where we found of which no drinks (or food) could be purchased, refreshments are readily available at most of the posts on the Cemoro Sewu trail – quite possibly saving my life!
Descending the mountain was also challenging. The path was unbelievably steep along with also being mostly paved with large stones I was surprised my knee joints didn’t completely shatter at some point. Yet by late afternoon along with also some 5 hours later we had made the item to post one, legs like jelly. coming from here the item was another hour or so of walking through a pine forest back to the main road. Sacred mountain or not, only one question was right now on my mind. Where the **** can I get a blessed Bintang?
Practicalities
- No guides are needed as the trails are very well defined along with also in many places paved with large stones.
- Be properly prepared with all the right gear as the item’s very cold at night along with also hypothermia kills. Night time temperatures go as low as 0-4 degrees.
- Bring a minimum of 2 litres of bottled water.
- Travel as light as possible.
- Don’t do the hike during the rainy season – truly, the item’s not worth the item.
- Be mentally prepared for a very tough hike.
- Take the hike seriously. If you have an accident you won’t be helicoptered out!
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Climbing Mount Lawu
Climbing Mount Lawu