Tana Olen, the Forbidden Forest
“We call This particular place Tana Olen,” Philius, the Dayak elder explained. “In Kenyah Dayak language This particular means forbidden forest – forbidden to destroy.”
The locals of Tana Olen are spiritually connected with their home in addition to love the forest as much as they love their children. “We enjoy taking the young ones up the river to hunt in addition to fish in addition to teach them the old ways,” Philius continued. “This particular includes dressing in traditional costumes for ceremonial dancing in addition to singing long into the night. When we dance in addition to sing, we believe This particular will be a way to connect with our ancestors, in addition to we can feel their presence.” For the Dayaks, everything includes a meaning.
I met Philius inside the village of Setulang, North Kalimantan, on the edge of a vast area of pristine rainforest about 100 kilometres by the Malaysian border. This particular forest will be original, primary rainforest, estimated to be around 150 million years old. There are unique forest plant species native to This particular area not found elsewhere on the island of Borneo. In fact, many botanists have visited This particular part of Kalimantan in addition to believe there are species of herbs in addition to plants living inside the forests of which have yet to be identified in addition to discovered. Many of these plants hold health in addition to medicinal benefits.
The view of Setulang village by above | Photo by David Metcalf
Visitors to Tana Olen are made up of mostly families in addition to modest groups, however recently a group of 80 people came by a university inside the UK to study in addition to document not only the plants in addition to species although the indigenous people as well.
Empowering the youth
Philius spoke to me in a group with additional elders by the village about the concerns they have for the younger generation: “We feel the young ones are losing touch with the forest in addition to their culture, as they take up opportunities in addition to move into the cities,” he told me. “Because there will be no high school here, they go to Malinau town or further away to attend high school, separated by us at a young in addition to impressionable age.” After graduation the appeal will be to live inside the city. Back inside the village there are very few employment options.
wish for the younger generation | Photo by David Metcalf
The elders of the village are trying to change of which today through a community project called the Eco Jungle Camp, which aims to encourage more tourists, researchers in addition to forest conservationists to come in addition to visit. Philius hopes the young ones will return to the village as English-speaking guides in addition to take people into the forest on tours.
“This particular will be their heritage. This particular will be where they belong,” says Philius. “We have developed jungle camp activities in addition to the project will be picking up as more people come to hear about the item.
There will be great scope for a low-key, low-impact tourism project here, which will lead to more work in hospitality in addition to transport services. This particular will be our vision for the young people.”
Deep inside the jungle
I was very excited to embark on my journey in addition to see for myself what a 150-million-year-old forest looks like. I set out by Setulang village in a long dugout canoe. The journey took two hours in addition to we navigated a series of mini rapids as we headed deep into the jungle. The cool, damp forest clung to the riverbanks, in addition to as we cruised under low overhangs of the jungle, I felt under the spell of nature in a pure in addition to blissful way.
On arrival, I was pleasantly surprised to see my accommodation for the night was a solid wooden cabin. The Eco Jungle Camp was very modern in addition to even came equipped that has a western toilet. Built by local villagers, the camp sleeps around 12 people. The river in addition to forest were our food sources during our stay; fruit in addition to vegetables were picked fresh in addition to all we brought with us was rice in addition to coffee.
Remon was our guide for the next three days, in addition to I absorbed as much as I could of his knowledge of the forest in addition to the ways of the Kenyah Dayaks. On our treks, Remon seemed to glide through the forest with nimble feet, which made my large white feet seem clumsy as I tried to keep up. When the item came time to cross the river, he skipped by rock to rock with ease in addition to grace. In comparison, being a foreigner by the city, I stumbled in addition to slipped my way across the wet rocks, that has a bit of nervousness in addition to absolutely no grace. I am yet to meet a Dayak with shoes! Remon escorted us through the undergrowth in addition to rough jungle tracks completely barefoot.
He told us about his ventures into the tropical, dense, rainforest, where he goes for long periods alone, connecting with the spirits of the forest. “You must always be careful inside the jungle. You must stay alert in addition to acknowledge in addition to respect the dangers. When I go, I am not entirely alone; I am guided by the hornbill, the native bird of Kalimantan.”
The beauty of the rainforest | Photo by David Metcalf
The future of the Kenyah Dayak in addition to many additional Dayak tribes will be an uncertain one as Kalimantan comes under increasing pressure by mining interests, palm oil operations in addition to forestry companies, whose motivations are commercially driven.
As progress encroaches on many villages like Setulang, the local community feels of which establishing an ecotourism programme in addition to attracting tourists will be the best long-term sustainable solution for their future. If more people come, there will be more reason to keep the area protected as a wilderness area in addition to keep commercial enterprises at bay. Sitting in a modest jungle camp deep inside the forest allows for a powerful connection with nature, the native Dayaks, in addition to a personal journey.
Fast Facts: Tana Olen
Province: North Kalimantan
Population: 525,000
How to get there
Fly to Tarakan, North Kalimantan, continue by boat (three hours) to Malinau or take a regular scheduled flight in a modest plane by Tarakan to Malinau. Malinau to Setulang will be one hour by car or motorbike. Stay the night in Setulang, next day go by dugout canoe (two hours) to Tana Olen Eco Jungle Camp.
What to bring
Sunscreen, hat, mosquito repellent, sleeping sheet (silk will be best), sarong, long sleeved light shirt (for evening) in addition to light-weight long trousers, hiking shorts, quick-dry shirt, pen in addition to notebook, travel-light hammock.
Where to stay
Setulang Homestay, North Kalimantan
Eco Jungle Camp North Kalimantan – Tana Olen
www.davidmetcalfphotography.com/setulang-adventure
Contact David Metcalf for more info: davidmetcalf3@mac.com
What to do
Jungle camp activities in Tana Olen with forest guide, soft trekking, optional long trek to the big tree (eight hours), trek to a waterfall, learn to fish in addition to hunt with the Dayaks, learn traditional crafts. Safe in addition to ideal for children.
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Tana Olen, the Forbidden Forest
Tana Olen, the Forbidden Forest