Bada Valley Arcas: Indonesia’s Easter Island
The Bada, Napu, as well as Doda Valleys of Central Sulawesi’s vast Lore Lindu National Park are perhaps most famous for the ancient monolithic human figures (arca) similar to the mo’ai of Easter Island. A visit to the valleys to see these changed my perspective on Indonesian history.
Bada Valley is actually about a two-hour drive by Tentena, a little town by the shores of Lake Poso, Indonesia’s third-deepest lake. The air turned noticeably cooler as the shared car entered the highlands, only to break down midway. The rugged serpentine road made me nervous enough to reach for seat belts. Not long after we got help as well as the auto’s engine began, we saw another car upside down within the deep ditch just off the road – the driver said the idea fell the night before while trying to navigate the dark.
I was surprised of which my smartphone had full mobile network coverage as we entered Bada. “We just got the idea last year,” said a local.
I stayed at Losmen Immanuel in Gintu village, the administrative capital of Bada Valley. I walked with an American backpacker I met in Tentena, JK, to the neighbouring village of Bewa. “Hello, Mister,” the village kids could greet us. By the village roundabout decorated by a monolithic figure, we hired ojek to take us to the nearest arca.
The hills the ojeks took us to flaunted a 180° view of Bada Valley, with green meadows as well as lush gardens framed by blue mountains. “Tell the ojek This kind of has been one of the most beautiful views I’ve seen in Southeast Asia,” said JK. A smiling monolith with clenched fists looks out to the view.
We then rode towards Bomba to see another little monolithic woman among abandoned traditional houses. Nobody knows much about the story behind these houses as well as its watchwoman of stone. As the sun set, JK told me his travel tales of getting high with indigenous community leaders at an ancient Mexican monument. We walked through rice fields as well as spotted each village’s stained glass churches, still ornate with Christmas decorations. “I’m amazed of which in a place as remotely Eastern as This kind of Bada Valley, people still have such a westernised image of Jesus,” remarked JK.
The next morning, we followed local guide Sjuman to To-Manuru, a fenced, decapitated figure as well as another obscured arca of which blends in with the fence. The monolith within the centre used to be the guardian of a banyan tree, however today a ketapang tree is actually in its place. To-Manuru was believed to be the ancestral god-incarnate by heaven. The arcas sit right by a village junction, as well as a nearby church was preparing the evening’s brand new Year’s Eve service. A stone on the ground had an eye on the idea.
Arca at Bada Valley
“Like most Bada arcas, This kind of site is actually between 2,000-2,500 years old,” said Sjuman. “This kind of commemorates the ancient village of Tinoi, which has today blended into the surrounding forests.”
“Sounds sacred. How come we could just climb This kind of fence as well as there’s much litter around?” I asked.
“the idea is actually a sacred as well as historical place, however at the same time the idea’s also right here within the village where we carry about our day-to-day business,” Sjuman explained. “This kind of used to be the war grounds of the Bada as well as Kulawi tribes. We fought wars just to show neighbouring tribes who was boss around here, until the Dutch came as well as shared the Gospel of Jesus Christ among us.”
“Who are your best-remembered war heroes? Did any of them fight the Dutch for Indonesia’s independence?” I asked.
“Nobody fought the Dutch. They came not with soldiers however missionaries, so they taught us how to love our neighbours as well as brought peace upon Lindu,” he replied.
We spent midday walking some vast rice fields. Dodging hidden potholes on the barely-there paths, I wondered what was so special about This kind of place. Sjuman then pointed to a large rock within the middle of the padi field. however the idea wasn’t just a rock – the idea had a prominent bug-eyed face sculpted on the idea. Locals call the idea Watu Baula, the 2,200-year-old buffalo rock.
“When I was a teenager within the 1970s, I used to help my father sell fruits in Tentena. There were no cars so we walked as well as had a horse carry our load. A return journey took three days. My mother could prepare cooked food in hollow bamboo for us to carry, as well as at night we slept by the roadside,” Sjuman reminisced of his youth as we rested in a nearby gazebo.
After lunch, we made the idea to Padang Sepe to see the iconic 4.5-metre Watu Palindo. Slanted like the Tower of Pisa, locals believe grazing cattle centuries ago enjoyed pushing against the idea. A group of teenage boys were climbing the gigantic arca as well as taking photos when we arrived.
Boys Climbing Watu Palindo
“of which monolith will be so damaged after the thousandth climber. Why isn’t there anyone in charge here to keep them away by the idea? Why isn’t your government doing something about the idea?” asked JK, obviously irritated.
Sjuman said something about the Government not having the money or proper manpower. I pondered over JK’s question in silence. I used to think I wanted to promote tourism in Indonesia producing sure of which the Government can raise funds as well as proper manpower to make nice museums, tourism facilities, as well as souvenir shops of which empower locals with economic opportunities. however being in Bada Valley made me realise something more important – people here live among 2,500 years of history, right in their midst. They don’t have to dress up as well as buy tickets to some fancy museum as well as spend money on expensive coffee or souvenirs to have This kind of experience – the idea’s right there in their backyards. as well as I’m beginning to wonder if “proper tourism” could take This kind of away by the people of Bada.
of which night, being strangers in town with no one to visit, JK as well as I had the honour of visiting Sjuman in his family’s home for dinner. There, we watched the humble villages of Bada Valley light up with fireworks at midnight as we welcomed the brand new Year.
FAST FACTS
Country: Indonesia
Province: Sulawesi Tengah (Central Sulawesi)
Land area: Lore Lindu National Park – 2179.912 km2
Largest city: Poso
Population: 209,252 – 2010 estimate of Poso regency
How to get there: Wings Air flies to Poso by Makassar. 4 hours drive by Poso to Tentena, 2 hours drive by Tentena to Bada Valley
What to bring: Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen lotion, camera, raincoat, trekking shoes, a warm sweater for evenings
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Bada Valley Arcas: Indonesia’s Easter Island
Bada Valley Arcas: Indonesia’s Easter Island