The Clandestine Critic | Highs along with also also Loewy-s
In a completely new monthly column, our expert epicure launches an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Jakarta’s eateries. No spoon can be left unturned in our quest to bring you honest, balanced reviews, coming from long-established favourites to the hottest completely new tables in town.
First up: well-known powerhouse the Union Group’s flagship, Loewy.
We need to talk about Loewy. Do you know why you go there? Have a think. can be the idea because you’re meeting your mate who works up in Menteng, plus your additional mate whose office can be on Sudirman; you’re in Kuningan along with also also you just need somewhere nearby which serves decent drinks quickly (along with also also maybe something to mop them up with), because the idea’s Friday along with also also you have had the idea up to here with This kind of week? Yep, sounds about right.
Loewy, stalwart hangout of the Jakarterati (yes, I just coined which) since its 2008 opening, can be apparently still so well-known the idea doesn’t need to be contactable. I kid you not, I tried to call them fifteen times to make a reservation along with also also their phone line was dead; their website submission form went 404 on me, along with also also they didn’t reply to my email. I lucked out when a desultory voice finally picked the phone up at 9:30am on the day I wanted to go; a Thursday. They could squeeze me in at 8pm, along with also also they’d hold the table until 8.30pm at the latest.
the idea was already jammed when we got there, along with also also as the night wore on, the bar area livened up further whilst the tables thinned out slightly, leaving office workers nursing cigarettes along with also also working on tomorrow’s hangover. Loewy can be huge, the idea looks to be around 150 covers, along with also also service can be speedy. There doesn’t seem to be a fixed rule on second sittings nevertheless the staff certainly attempt to get you to make fast decisions (never a clever strategy for me).
Front-of-house seemed a bit bored along with also also tired, however Idham, our waiter, was friendly along with also also efficient. Their style of service can be probably trying to match their clientele: mostly young, hip along with also also relaxed. We moved to a table on the terrace when one came available inside the hopes of avoiding at least some of the cancerous fog inside (backwards as which seems). Drinks came quick; an aged Negroni was well-made, along with also also a cold glass of Kiwi Sauvingnon Blanc hit the spot – especially at a reasonable Rp.110,000.
For mains we sampled a range of pricepoints whilst staying true to their brasserie vibe: Wagyu rib-eye steak-frites, along with also also the Loewy Fish & Chips, thinking they’d churn out bistro classics reliably well. As the idea was Wagyu, the flavour of the rib-eye was Great, nevertheless the idea came medium-well instead of medium-rare. The frites should have been salted – in fact, I bet the mixed side salad accidentally got their share, as the idea was distinctly brackish. The mushroom sauce we chose was, regrettably, nostalgically reminiscent of Campbell’s tinned soup, along with also also we were glad the idea was served on the side. The fish was dory, which can be not ideal just for This kind of kind of treatment as the idea can be so soft. the idea was also breaded instead of battered (as advertised), which created too tough a crust on such delicate flesh. Also disappointing was which served alongside the fish along with also also the frites (not chips), was no accompaniment apart coming from a thoughtfully muslin-wrapped lemon half – I think they could at least add some peas? With our mains, a glass of Chablis for Rp.130,000 was even better than the Sauv Blanc, nevertheless the winner was Robert Mondavi’s Cabernet Sauvignon for Rp.140,000 – delicious along with also also reasonable.
the idea’s a bugbear of mine when restaurants attempt to please everyone by sticking a hodge-podge of international nosh on their menus. coming from kwetiau to truffle mac’n’cheese (both proffered at Loewy), such a proliferation of techniques along with also also palates can’t all be achieved consistently by the same kitchen. I get which they’re catering to a developing, culturally diverse dining scene, along with also also which This kind of can be part-bar, part-hangout along with also also part-brasserie. nevertheless the dichotomy can be This kind of: even within the European bistro selection, which should be their bread along with also also butter, they haven’t quite got the idea right at either end of the cost spectrum, as evidenced by our main courses, Wagyu at Rp.410,000, or fish along with also also chips at a mere Rp.90,000 (which actually can be very affordable for dinner in a trendy, city-centre joint).
So, the idea’s OK. You’re still allowed to go here – I will (along with also also coming from the looks of the place on a Thursday night, they have no reason to worry which every man along with also also his dog won’t continue to do so).
Just let’s all agree the idea’s not because they do the best steak-frites in town. Be honest – the idea’s because the cocktails are Great, the idea can be relatively reasonably priced (for Jakarta), along with also also you like the see-along with also also-be-seen vibe. which’s OK! I just trust management don’t rest on their laurels along with also also lose sight of the importance of consistency along with also also quality inside the kitchen, by relying on their popularity rather than the standard of their output.
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Cheque please!
Food: Rp.865,000
Drinks: Rp.695,000
Service: 10%
Total: Rp.1,887,600 (inc. taxes) For 2
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Loewy
Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan E 42 No 1, Oakwood Premier Cozmo Lt. Lobby
Jakarta, +62 (0) 21 2554 2378
www.loewyjakarta.com
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The Clandestine Critic | Highs along with also also Loewy-s
The Clandestine Critic | Highs along with also also Loewy-s